The best water heater brand is the one that offers the right model for your home, fuel source, hot-water demand, installation space, and local service options. Rheem, A. O. Smith, and Bradford White are all established manufacturers with broad residential product lines, but no single brand is best for every household.
Instead of choosing by logo alone, compare the exact models available to you. Look at capacity, first-hour rating, gallons per minute, Uniform Energy Factor, venting needs, warranty terms, replacement-part access, and installer familiarity. This guide explains how three top water heater brands compare and what matters more than the name printed on the tank.
What Makes a Water Heater Brand Worth Considering?
A good brand should offer suitable models, clear product documentation, accessible warranty support, and replacement parts that qualified plumbers can obtain.
The strongest choice also depends on whether the manufacturer has a model that fits your home without costly changes. For example, a gas water heater must match the available fuel, venting system, gas supply, and installation space. An electric model must match the home’s electrical capacity.
Before settling on a brand, consider:
- Product options for your fuel source
- Tank, tankless, and heat pump availability
- Energy-efficiency ratings
- Warranty coverage for the exact model
- Local access to service and parts
- Installer experience with the product
- Required maintenance
- Total installed cost
A long warranty can be valuable, but it does not automatically make one model better. Some warranties cover the tank for a longer period than the parts, while labor may be excluded entirely. Coverage can also depend on product registration, proper installation, routine maintenance, and whether an authorized service provider completes the repair. Always read the written warranty for the exact model so you understand what is covered.
What You Need
- A garden hose rated for hot water
- A floor drain, outdoor discharge area, or sturdy buckets
- Work gloves Eye protection
- A flathead screwdriver, if required by the drain valve
- A non-contact voltage tester for an electric model
- Your water heater’s owner’s manual
Make sure the hose can reach a safe drainage point. Hot water can damage plants, flooring, plastic containers, and some drain systems.
How to Drain a Water Heater in 8 Steps
1. Read the Manufacturer’s Instructions
Find the model number on the water heater and review its manual. Follow the manufacturer’s shutdown, draining, and restart directions when they differ from general guidance.
This matters most for power-vented gas units, heat pump water heaters, smart controls, and units with automatic shutoff valves.
2. Turn Off the Energy Source
For an electric water heater, switch off the correct circuit breaker. Use a non-contact tester when access to wiring is required.
For a gas water heater, follow the label and owner’s manual. Depending on the model, the control may need to be set to “pilot” or “off.” Some gas units also use electricity. Never work on an energized electric water heater.
3. Let the Water Cool
Hot water can cause serious burns. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission notes that a residential setting of about 120°F may help reduce tap-water scald risks. Even at that setting, the water can still be hot enough to injure someone.
Open a hot-water faucet and let it run until the water becomes cool or comfortably warm. Manufacturer instructions also warn homeowners to cool the water before draining to reduce scald risk.
4. Close the Cold-Water Supply
Find the cold-water inlet valve above the tank and close it. Do not force a valve that is stuck, corroded, or leaking. A damaged shutoff valve may need professional replacement.
5. Connect the Drain Hose
Attach the hose securely to the drain valve near the bottom of the tank.
Run the other end to a floor drain, outdoors, or into suitable containers. Keep the hose as straight as possible. A kink can slow the flow or create pressure at the connection.
6. Open a Hot-Water Faucet
Open a hot-water faucet inside the home. This lets air enter the plumbing system and can help the tank drain more freely.
Some manufacturer procedures use the temperature and pressure relief valve to admit air. Do not operate that valve unless the manual instructs you to do so and the discharge pipe drains to a safe location. An older valve may not reseal after testing.
7. Open the Drain Valve
Slowly open the water heater’s drain valve. Water should begin moving through the hose. Watch the hose connection, the valve, and the drainage point for leaks or backups.
If no water comes out, sediment may be blocking the valve. Do not insert a tool into the valve while the tank contains hot or pressurized water. Stop and call a plumber if you cannot restore safe flow.
8. Flush the Sediment
Once the tank has drained, leave the hose connected and the drain valve open.
Briefly open the cold-water supply. Fresh water will enter the tank and stir up loose material near the bottom. Let several gallons discharge, then close the cold-water valve and allow the tank to empty again.
Repeat this process until the water runs reasonably clear. Manufacturer instructions commonly describe flushing with fresh water until visible sediment is gone.
Do not expect every grain of mineral scale to disappear. Hardened deposits may require professional cleaning. In an older or badly corroded unit, a plumber may recommend water heater replacement instead of further maintenance.
How to Refill and Restart the Water Heater
Refill the tank before restoring electricity or gas operation.
- Close the drain valve.
- Remove the hose.
- Open the cold-water supply.
- Leave a hot-water faucet open while the tank fills.
- Wait for a steady stream of water without bursts of air.
- Check the drain valve and nearby fittings for leaks.
- Close the faucet.
- Follow the manual’s restart instructions.
An electric water heater must be completely full before power is restored. Energizing an empty or partly filled tank can damage the heating elements. Manufacturer manuals state that a steady flow from an open hot-water faucet confirms that the tank is full.
For a gas model, follow the lighting instructions printed on the unit. Do not relight it when you smell gas, see damaged venting, or are unsure how the controls work.
Draining Versus Flushing a Water Heater
Task | What It Does | Best Used For |
Draining | Removes the water inside the tank | Repairs, replacement, relocation, or freeze protection |
Flushing | Moves fresh water through the tank to carry out loose sediment | Routine water heater sediment removal |
Professional cleaning | Addresses heavy buildup, blocked valves, damaged parts, and related performance problems | Older, neglected, noisy, leaking, or poorly draining units |
A full drain does not always remove compacted scale. Flushing works best when it is performed before deposits become severe.
When a tank has reached the end of its useful life, proper water heater installation is important. The new unit must be connected, vented, filled, and started according to the manufacturer’s instructions and applicable local requirements.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Restoring power before the tank is full: This can damage electric heating elements. Always confirm a steady stream at an open hot-water faucet first.
- Draining water while it is still very hot: Cool the water before connecting, moving, or disconnecting the hose.
- Forcing old valves: A corroded drain valve or shutoff valve may break and create a leak. Stop when a part will not move normally.
- Flushing a neglected tank without a plan: Sediment can clog an older plastic drain valve. If the heater has not been serviced for many years, professional help may be safer.
- Treating a tankless unit like a storage tank: Tankless water heaters require a model-specific descaling process. Standard tank-draining instructions do not apply.
When Should You Call a Plumber?
Stop the project and call a qualified plumber when:
- The drain valve will not open or close
- Water continues leaking after the valve is closed
- The shutoff valve is corroded or stuck
- You smell gas
- The vent or flue looks loose or damaged
- Electrical components are wet
- Rusty water continues after flushing
- The tank shows active corrosion or leakage
- You are unsure how to restart the system
- The water heater makes loud noises after service
A leaking tank usually cannot be repaired. It often requires replacement. Water coming from a fitting, valve, or pipe may have a different solution, so the source should be confirmed before replacing the unit.
An expert can also help you choose the size of the water heater based on household demand, available space, fuel type, and how the home uses hot water. A unit that is too small may run out of hot water, while an oversized model may use more energy than needed.
Water Heater Maintenance With Lasting Results
Learning how to flush a water heater can help homeowners remove loose sediment and spot developing problems. The safest approach is to work slowly, follow the manual, and never restore power until the tank is full.
For homeowners who would rather have the system inspected and serviced professionally, Smedley Plumbing can evaluate the water heater, drain and flush it when appropriate, and explain any repair or replacement options before work begins in Kansas City, MO.
Frequently Asked Questions
The cold-water supply should usually be closed while the tank drains. You can briefly reopen it during flushing to stir up sediment, then close it again before the tank finishes draining. If the shutoff valve is stuck, leaking, or difficult to operate, stop and get expert help rather than forcing it.
A kinked hose, a closed hot-water faucet, or sediment blocking the drain valve may slow the flow.
- Straighten the hose.
- Open a hot-water faucet.
- Stop if the valve appears clogged or damaged.
Do not insert tools into the valve while the tank is hot or pressurized.
A bathtub is usually not the best choice. Hot water and sediment may damage the surface or clog the drain. A floor drain or safe outdoor area is better when available.
Cloudiness may come from air or fine sediment. Let a sample sit in a clear container. Air bubbles should disappear, while sediment may settle to the bottom. Ongoing discoloration may need professional inspection.
Not unless it leaks, will not close, or is badly clogged. Because valve replacement requires the tank to be safely drained, contact Smedley Plumbing when the valve no longer works properly.
